Alexandria: Mediterranean Egypt Guide

Alexandria: Mediterranean Egypt Guide

Alexandria is Egypt's second-largest city and its window to the Mediterranean world. Founded by Alexander the Great in 331 BCE, this city was once the intellectual capital of the ancient world, home to the legendary Library and the Pharos Lighthouse. Today, Alexandria offers a different Egypt - breezy, cosmopolitan, and flavored with Greek, Italian, and French influences.

Why Visit Alexandria?

• Different Atmosphere: Mediterranean vibes unlike anywhere else in Egypt
• Ancient History: Cleopatra's city, once rivaling Rome
• The Library: Stunning modern architecture honoring ancient scholarship
• Seafood: Egypt's best fish restaurants
• Corniche: Beautiful waterfront promenade
• Day Trip: Easy 3-hour train ride from Cairo

Top Attractions

Bibliotheca Alexandrina (New Library)
The modern library, opened in 2002, honors the ancient Library of Alexandria. The stunning tilted disc architecture houses millions of books, museums, and exhibition spaces. Even non-bookworms are impressed.

• Entry: 70 EGP


• Hours: 10 AM - 7 PM (closed Friday morning)

Citadel of Qaitbay
This 15th-century fortress sits on the site of the ancient Pharos Lighthouse, one of the Seven Wonders. The views of the harbor are beautiful, and the interior has a small naval museum.

• Entry: 60 EGP

Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa
Fascinating underground tombs mixing Egyptian, Greek, and Roman styles. The descent into these 2nd-century chambers is eerie and memorable.

• Entry: 80 EGP

Pompey's Pillar
A 27-meter red granite column erected in honor of Emperor Diocletian. It's impressive but can be combined with the nearby Serapeum ruins.

• Entry: 80 EGP

Roman Amphitheater
Small but well-preserved Roman theater discovered accidentally in 1960. The marble seats and acoustics are still remarkable.

• Entry: 60 EGP

The Corniche Experience

Alexandria's waterfront Corniche stretches for miles along the Mediterranean. Walking here is essential:

• Watch waves crash against the seawall


• See old-style cafes and new restaurants


• Observe locals fishing, walking, courting


• Catch sunset over the Mediterranean


• Find hidden beaches and swimming spots

Where to Eat

Seafood (Alexandria's Specialty)

• Fish Market Restaurant: Choose your fish, choose your preparation


• Kadoura: Legendary, always packed


• Seagull: Upscale, waterfront views


• Tikka Grill: Modern Egyptian seafood

Traditional Egyptian

• Mohammed Ahmed: Famous ful and falafel since 1910


• Hosny: Historic restaurant, excellent Egyptian food

Historic Cafes

• Trianon: Belle époque elegance, pastries


• Délices: Greek-Egyptian sweets since 1922


• Brazilian Coffee Store: Atmospheric old cafe

Day Trip Itinerary

If visiting from Cairo (3 hours by train), here's a suggested one-day itinerary:

Morning

• 7 AM train from Cairo Ramses Station


• Arrive Alexandria ~10 AM


• Visit Bibliotheca Alexandrina


• Coffee break nearby

Midday

• Walk along Corniche to Citadel


• Visit Qaitbay Citadel


• Seafood lunch at Fish Market

Afternoon

• Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa


• Pompey's Pillar (quick stop)


• Stroll through old Greek quarter

Evening

• Sunset on the Corniche


• Dinner at Kadoura


• 8 PM train back to Cairo

Staying Overnight

Luxury

• Four Seasons San Stefano


• Hilton Alexandria Corniche


• Steigenberger Cecil Hotel (historic)

Mid-Range

• Paradise Inn Windsor Palace


• Romance Alexandria Corniche


• Cherry Maryski Hotel

Budget

• Union Hotel


• Triomphe Hostel


• Various Airbnbs downtown

Practical Information

Getting There

• Train from Cairo: 3 hours, comfortable, cheap


• Bus from Cairo: 3 hours, frequent departures


• Car: 3 hours via desert road

Getting Around

• Yellow trams are charming but slow


• Uber and Careem work well


• Taxis (negotiate first)


• Walking along Corniche is pleasant

Best Time to Visit

• Year-round destination (Mediterranean climate)


• Summer: Egyptians crowd beaches


• Winter: Cooler, sometimes rainy, fewer crowds


• Spring/Fall: Ideal weather

Historical Notes

Ancient Alexandria was:

• Capital of Ptolemaic Egypt


• Home of Cleopatra VII


• Location of the Great Library (tragically lost)


• Site of the Pharos Lighthouse (one of Seven Wonders)


• A center of learning (Euclid, Ptolemy, Hypatia taught here)

While little remains of ancient Alexandria (it's under the modern city and sea), the spirit of cosmopolitan learning continues.

Tips for Visitors

• Alexandria is more liberal than Cairo - but still dress modestly
• Try the seafood - it's Egypt's best
• The Corniche is best at sunset
• Train is better than bus from Cairo
• Don't skip the Library even if you're not a reader
• Allow time just to wander and soak up the atmosphere

Alexandria offers a different side of Egypt - more Mediterranean, more cosmopolitan, more relaxed. It's worth at least a day trip, but staying overnight lets you fully appreciate this fascinating city's unique character.